Custom wooden rocking chair design & build blog
I’m using my band saw to re-saw a 2’’ thick piece of Canadian black walnut into 2 boards. What resaw means is that you cut a board typically on a bandsaw, that has already been made into rough lumber into 2 or more boards of a thinner thickness. By doing this i'm able to book match the grain for a table top or drawers.
This is a live edge board that measures about 17’’ at it’s widest part, I’ve already squared up the board which means taking a rough cut piece of wood that may have a cup or twist and no 90 degree edges.
I then set the fence on my bandsaw to the width I want, clamp on my feather board that helps hold the board square to the fence.
I plan on using the resawn boards for a solid walnut maloof inspired coffee table, I’ve never done this coffee table base with a live edge so I’m really excited to see how this turns out.
I'm using a 1/2'' 3tpi bandsaw blade from:
R&D Bandsaws. 42 Regan Road, Unit 18. Brampton, Ontario, L7A 1B4. Canada. Info: (905) 840-0399. Fax: (905) 840-4398. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Today I’m working on a solid walnut coffee table, cafe table, low back chair and rocking chair all built in the maloof style of joinery and sculpting.
I’m walking through my shop located in Acton, Ontario, Canada, describing what i’m working on, my pieces are built in the maloof style so lot’s of sculpting and sanding (-:
Very strong dowel and tongue and groove joints.
Thanks for having a look!
Now on to the head rest, I have already glued up the coopered pieces into a blocky curved piece of wood. I then use this jig to swing the headrest through the bandsaw blade to create my arc that requires sanding but not nearly as much as if I had cut this headrest by hand.
This is the result after swinging the headrest through the bandsaw, I'm left with a 1 3/8'' thick piece in a perfect arc.
I now test fit the headrest in the chair, i've trimmed the outsides of the headrest until it fits perfect, the edges have to match the 6 degree splay of the leg uprights. Because of the coopered headrest I have a long grain to long grain joint where the headrest attaches to the back legs, this is a very good thing because this is the strongest joint in woodworking.
Now I have trimmed the horns of the chair uprights and cut the curve on the top and bottom of the headrest, next is lots of hand shaping with rasps and kutzall motorized rasps.